The Gemstone Emerald
Green is the color of nature which lives & breathes through the green leaves, and the green grass. The rich green color of our gemstone emerald is the color of spring. As such Emeralds have always symbolized love, rebirth & eternal youth.
The green color of emerald jewelry is reflective of life, love and unity in the beliefs of many cultures and religions and emerald birthstones too, are associated with these qualities.
In fact emerald is the only gemstone to have a color named after itself ‘emerald green’.
The name Emerald stems from the Greek word smaragdos through the old French Esmeralde, which means ‘Green Gemstone’.
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Emerald is a variety of the mineral Beryl which has the chemical formula of Be3Al2(SiO3)6 beryllium aluminium cyclosilicate. Pure Beryl is colorless and Emerald gets its stunning green color from the touch of impurities of chromium (or less frequently vanadium) in its molecular structure.
Emerald has been recognized by mankind and prized as a gemstone since ancient times when they were found only in Egypt. The Egyptians from the time of Cleopatra quarried it under the scorching desert heat and fear of poisonous snakes and scorpions. But close to the year 1492 onwards they began to arrive from other territories of the world.
Today they are mined pretty much all over the world in Brazil, Pakistan, Zimbabwe, Zambia, Russia and Columbia. The finest stones come from Columbia but the most valuable emeralds came from Rajasthan region of India in the sixteenth century. All the significant jewelry manufacturers like Cartier, Bvlgari and other obtain much of their emeralds from India.
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Like all gemstones, the factors which determine the quality of an emerald and its selling price are Color, Clarity, Cut and Carat weight. Its color determines the quality of an emerald far more than anything else.
Color:
Quality emeralds are deep rich grassy green and effervescent in color while lesser emeralds are paler and less brilliant. There are further elements within the color factor which have to be given consideration like the hue of the stone which includes tints other than green; the tone of the color which range from dark to light shade; and saturation meaning the purity of the color and the scale of the mixed secondary hues. Yellow and blue are the normal secondary hues observed in emerald.
Clarity:
The same mammoth geological forces and pressures that aid the formation of emeralds also lead to fissures and inclusions in the gemstone, and nearly all Emeralds come with inclusions and fissures. It is very rare to come across an emerald that is absolutely clear and such a gemstone commands a heavy premium. At the same time an absolutely clear stone makes it suspect of being a man made one.
As opposed to diamonds which are examined under ten times magnification to find inclusions, an eye clean emerald with inclusions not noticeable to the naked eye is deemed flawless. But connoisseurs prefer emeralds with at least a few inclusions as an evidence of their authenticity.
A few inclusions are anticipated and do not take away from the value of the stone as much as with other gemstones and emerald ranks among the topmost precious gemstones of the world in spite of the flaws and inclusions.
However, you should make sure that fissures do not go too deep into the stone weakening it and making it prone to splitting.
Emeralds are generally treated by immersing them in colorless oil or resin to fill up its fissures and enhance its clarity and durability. It is an accepted practice in gem trade as long as it is openly declared.
Cut:
An Emerald should be well cut to give it the maximum glow and sparkle though the cut is not as important in case of an emerald as with other gemstones since the emerald is mostly valued on the basis of its color. Moreover, an emerald is usually too included to sparkle.
However, in order to make a wise choice it is essential for you to understand the difference between a good and a bad cut.
In an effectively cut emerald you should not be able to look though the stone but rather the light should be reflected back at you. You should steer clear of emeralds with uneven facets. Twirl the emerald around, and verify that each facet reflects light like a well polished mirror with no rough or dull blemishes.
Due to the inherent inclusions, cutting an emerald is a challenging job for every craftsman. The shape “emerald cut” which is in style now for diamonds as well as other gemstones was in reality originally developed for emerald. It is a rectangular or square cut with cut corners. The facets are broad with flat planes resembling the steps of a stair. This cut brings out the magnificence of this valuable gemstone to the optimum and at the same time protects it during an accidental impact.
The cabochon cut is another type of gemstone cut given normally to emeralds. Its relative crystal non-uniformity makes emeralds more likely than other gemstones to be cut into cabochons, rather than faceted shapes.
Carat:
Emeralds of large carat size are incredibly rare making the larger carat size stones very high-priced. Price changes considerably with minor difference in weight which is why emeralds are restricted to few standard shapes. The volume lost in cutting would lead to decline in value.
A very rare type of emerald known as the ‘Trapiche Emerald’ distinguished by star-shaped rays originating from its center in a hexagonal pattern is found only in the Muzo mining district of Colombia. The phenomenon is caused by black carbon impurities that happen to form in the same star shaped pattern.
Artifical emeralds are also manufactured today by recreating the atmospheric conditions contributing to formation of emerald in a lab with selected elements.
Don’t clean your emerald either with hot soapy water or steam or in an ultrasonic cleaner because the oil or resin used in treatment could be removed or damaged, making fissures more visible. Luckily, it is possible to have emeralds re-oiled. Emeralds are sturdy gemstones with a hardness of 7.5 to 8. However, emeralds should generally be treated with care and sheltered from accidental clashing with other objects.
Use water at room temperature and a very a tender brush to gently clean your emerald. Complete the cleaning quickly without prolonged exposure of the gemstone to water.
Cleopatra’s love for emerald was legendary. Mummies in ancient Egypt were frequently buried with an emerald on their necks, the flourishing green a symbol of eternal youth. The Mogul emperors of India, including Shah Jahan who built The Taj Mahal, fancied emeralds so much they inscribed them with sacred text and wore them as lucky charms. Another mogul emperor Jahangir owned a drinking cup carved out of emerald.
Emerald is considered as the traditional birthstone for May, as well as the traditional gemstone for the astrological signs of Taurus, Cancer and sometimes Gemini. In some cultures, the emerald is the traditional gift for the fifty-fifth wedding anniversary.
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